Kalam & Kaghan Valley heaven in earth

A holiday in the Kaghan Valley, the Himalayan hide-away, north-east of the Hazara district of Pakistan’s North West Frontier Province, is an unforgettable experience. Its mountains, dales, lakes, water-falls, streams and glaciers are still in unbelievable pristine state, and unspoiled paradise. That is why it can be such a deeply satisfying experience to spend a few days in Kaghan. The Valley extends for 155 kms. Rising from an elevation of 2,134 metres to its highest point, the Babusar Pass, at 4,173 metres. Kaghan is at its best in the summer months (May to September). In May the temperature is: maximum 11 C and the minimum 3 C. From the middle of July up to the end of September, the road beyond Naran, snow-bound throughout the winter, is open right up to Babusar Pass. Movement is restricted during the monsoon season als

From the mighty stretches of the Karakorams in the North to the vast alluvial delta of the Indus River in the South, Pakistan remains a land of high adventure and nature. Trekking, mountaineering, white water rafting, wild boar hunting, mountain and desert jeep safaris, camel and yak safaris, trout fishing and bird watching, are a few activities, which entice the adventure and nature lovers to Pakistan.

Embraced by the cool forested peaks of the Lesser Himalaya, this 160km-long valley drained by the burbling Kunhar River is one of Pakistan’s most popular summer holiday spots. The verdant valley is not without its problems of crowding, litter and gouging hoteliers during the brief holiday season, but outside the summer peak, you will find the promised tranquillity though many of the hotels will have closed their doors.

The 2005 Kashmir earthquake devastated the town of Balakot and destroyed many roads in the steep-sided Kaghan Valley. On-going land slippage and subsequent savage winters have hindered roadworks, which were frequent enough even before the earthquake, and restoration of phone and power lines. Rebuilding was very much in evidence at the time of writing but it will be many years before this region returns to normal in terms of ­access and accommodation

Kalam was an independent kingdom before it fell under the sway of Chitral in the 19th century. It was given to Swat at Partition and now sells itself as the ‘Switzerland of Pakistan’ to domestic tourists. At 2070m with stunning mountain scenery it’s certainly a competitor.

Tourism dominates the village and unfettered development has crept away from the Swat River and onto the slopes. But its not too hard to escape the concrete and head into the wild and beautiful landscape that is Kalam’s real draw. Bear in mind that Swat Kohistan is a traditionally conservative and feudal place, and there are occasional hostilities towards both foreigners and the hordes of Punjabi tourists that come here. The PTDC advises taking a guide if you want to go hiking, and can help organise this.